The 2010s were undoubtedly the era of the hypebeast sneaker. The streets were flooded with the iconic Yeezy Boosts, Off-White collaborations, and the unstoppable Nike Air Jordans. The resale market boomed as exclusive sneaker drops drove prices through the roof, with collectors and fashion-forward youth scrambling for the latest styles. Sneakers became not just functional footwear but the cornerstone of a cultural movement—a symbol of status and style. Fast forward to the 2020s, however, and the sneaker seems to be losing some of its edge. A shift is taking place, both in terms of its cultural significance and its role in the high-fashion world.
In 2023, the hype surrounding sneakers is still undeniable, but it’s clear that the conversation is changing. Consider the recent Adidas x Grace Wales Bonner collaboration, which sold out almost immediately, with resale prices topping $700. The Samba, once just a classic gym shoe, became a must-have fashion item—proof that the high demand for sneakers still exists. Brands like Onitsuka Tiger and Puma Speedcat have been paired with upscale fashion staples such as Khaite jeans and The Row coats, indicating that sneakers remain a part of the luxury conversation. On top of that, collaborations between high-end designers and Nike (from Bode to Jacquemus) have flown off the shelves, further solidifying the sneaker’s place in the world of high fashion.
Yet, despite these high-profile releases, there’s a noticeable shift that came into focus during fashion month. No longer were sneakers a dominant feature among the show-goers. Editors, influencers, and buyers—typically seen in sneakers to maintain comfort while running from show to show—seemed to have swapped their trusty footwear for alternatives. Ballet flats, loafers, and boots appeared more frequently on the feet of the fashion set, leaving sneaker-wearers in the minority.
Could this shift signal the end of the sneaker’s reign in fashion? Let’s dive into why sneakers have become less ubiquitous and whether their status as a fashion item is waning.
The Rise of Fashion Sneakers in the 2020s
While the 2010s were all about the rise of the hypebeast culture and the sneaker’s role as a coveted, limited-edition status symbol, the 2020s ushered in a new chapter for footwear. This era saw the advent of fashion sneakers—sleek, minimalistic, and versatile designs that bridged the gap between performance wear and everyday style. Sneakers like the Adidas Samba and New Balance 550 have been embraced by fashion-forward individuals, and their influence has been particularly felt in the collaborations between athletic brands and high-end designers.
Adidas, for example, experienced a major resurgence in 2023 with its Grace Wales Bonner collaboration. The graceful, refined aesthetic brought a new level of sophistication to Adidas’ classic silhouettes, pushing them from being utilitarian shoes into high-fashion territory. The resale prices for these sneakers soared to over $700, a testament to their status and demand. Similarly, the rise of brown suede sneakers—seen in collaborations such as the Dries Van Noten x New Balance partnership—further cemented the fashion sneaker’s importance in the luxury market.
Throughout 2023, high-fashion houses that once shied away from sneakers jumped on the bandwagon. Collaborations between Nike and fashion brands like Jacquemus and Bode sold out quickly, showing that the sneaker had not only survived the hypebeast craze but had been assimilated into the broader luxury fashion landscape. As sneakers became less about exclusivity and more about their function in a complete, fashionable wardrobe, they evolved into a key wardrobe staple.
However, while sneakers remain influential in street style, the dominance of high-end fashion collaborations and cultural cachet appears to be waning in some circles.
The Shift on Fashion Week Runways
A significant clue that the sneaker’s reign may be coming to an end surfaced during Fashion Month, where editors, influencers, and buyers were seen opting for footwear alternatives. Unlike previous seasons, when stylish sneakers were often paired with haute couture looks and showcased in street style shots, this year saw fewer sneakers at the shows. Instead, the footwear of choice ranged from ballet flats and loafers to ankle boots and pointed-toe heels—pieces that are more refined and less tied to the casual, youthful vibe that sneakers once represented.
The shift away from sneakers could indicate a desire for a more mature, elevated look. Buyers and fashion insiders, who often need to balance comfort with style, may have started gravitating toward footwear that feels more polished and refined. This isn’t necessarily a rejection of sneakers, but rather a shift toward greater versatility and an evolving aesthetic. Ballet flats and loafers, for example, are having a moment as both a return to classic style and as an answer to the growing interest in comfort without sacrificing sophistication.
One could also argue that the shift is in response to oversaturation. In the past decade, sneaker culture was defined by exclusivity—limited-edition releases that became instantly coveted. Today, the market is flooded with sneakers in every conceivable style, often pushing the boundaries of what constitutes “luxury.” As a result, sneakers no longer carry the same cachet they once did. Fashion insiders, accustomed to being at the cutting edge, may be tiring of the sneaker fatigue and seeking something fresher.
Sneakers and the Luxury Market: Are We Entering a New Era?
This transition away from sneakers on the runway may also signal a broader shift in consumer behavior. In recent years, the luxury market has been influenced by a movement toward sustainability and quality over quantity. As consumers become more conscientious about the environmental impact of fast fashion, there is growing interest in investment pieces—products that have staying power and are less tied to fleeting trends. The sneaker market, particularly the resale market, has become a highly speculative environment, driven by hype cycles. As a result, many luxury buyers might be moving away from sneakers in favor of products that offer more longevity.
Moreover, the rise of athleisure in recent years has blurred the line between casual and formal wear, giving way to slip-on sneakers, trainers, and high-performance fashion footwear. While they have become a mainstay in street style, it is possible that the fashion community now views sneakers as more functional than aspirational. Over time, the fashion sneaker might be transitioning from statement footwear to everyday wear, a shift that could make it less “special” and more commonplace.
The Future of Fashion Sneakers
So, where does that leave the fashion sneaker? While their prominence on the runway may have diminished, it’s unlikely that sneakers will ever completely disappear from fashion. Instead, we’re seeing a redefinition of their role in the broader fashion ecosystem. The rise of brown suede sneakers, Dries Van Noten collaborations, and the continued popularity of New Balance suggest that sneakers are far from irrelevant. The cultural significance of sneakers has changed, shifting from an accessory tied to exclusivity and hype to one focused on quality, craftsmanship, and versatility.
The 2020s might be the era of understated elegance, where shoes like loafers and ballet flats rise in prominence, and sneakers move into a different, more niche space within luxury fashion. As the market matures, the once-undisputed reign of the sneaker may be over—but that doesn’t mean they are any less relevant. They’re simply evolving to meet the needs of a more nuanced consumer base who values longevity, style, and functionality over flash and fleeting trends.
Conclusion
While sneakers remain a core part of fashion culture, especially in the context of high-fashion collaborations, the fashion world is embracing a broader spectrum of footwear styles. The shift away from sneakers during Fashion Week highlights this evolving taste and suggests that sneakers, while still relevant, may not be as dominant as they once were. In a world where versatility, sustainability, and understated elegance are becoming more important, the fashion sneaker’s role might just be undergoing a transformation.
